Bristol Channel Cutter Elizabeth

…my foot that is. I wasn’t dancing, but I got what’s known as a “dancer’s fracture”. It’s is basically an avulsion fracture at the base of the fifth metatarsal due to traction exerted from the tendon when the foot is forcefully inverted. In other words, I twisted my ankle when I slipped on some wet stone steps so hard, that the tendon of the muscle that attaches to the outside of my foot pulled hard enough to actually tear off a fragment the bone.

So, looks like my sailing plans are on hold for at least a month. It’s actually not the worst thing in the world, since I had been stretching myself a little too hard to get things done so I could make it to Boston and Maine. Funny how things manifest themselves this way. Mother nature’s way of saying, “Hold on kid, your overdoing it, take it easy for a bit.” So, those projects I was rushing through, will now get the time they deserve, and the long list of projects I’ve neglected might actually get shorter (doubtful).

Elizabeth finally  got out for a sail on Sunday. I made my goal of getting out sailing by June… June 28th. Perfect conditions for a shake down: 10-15kts, partly cloudy, 1-2′ seas. We bombed out for a few hours, took a few tacks, a few pics, ate some chips & salsa and sipped on some Vanilla Chai Tea. I was grinning from ear to ear as I finally saw these sails go up and start drawing. My friend Willy came out with me, he has been helping me with some of my recent projects, and was happy to take a break from working on his wooden boat.

Now, I work feverishly to prepare for the sail to Boston and Maine. I need to have the Monitor Windvane rebuilt and installed, the Simrad Tiller Pilot installed and the solar panel mounted securely to the railing so that I can store the dink on the cabin house. Plus a host of other odds and ends. The work never ends!

Another milestone - mast stepping. I took 2 days to rig the mast, taking my time and making sure it was all done well. Of course I ran into a few issues, like one of my sta-lok eye terminals was actually 7/16″ not 1/2″ which I didn’t notice until I went to put in the pin.  But it’s a simple fix with Sta-lok… you just swap out the eye. No need to cut wire or re-form it. Just add more goop and locktite and snug the new piece down. I used Tef-Gel anywhere and everywhere I could to help isolate the stainless and aluminum. I used Lanocote on the turnbuckles. I wire wheeled, then passivated all the mast hardware I reused. And I seized the stays’l block shackle — that took me happily back to my old schooner days. I was almost ready to whip out the pine tar and start slushing my brand new 1×19 SS rig!

I made a mistake on the mast step base. I should have tightened it down where I wanted it (before dropping the mast in) which was all the way aft, in order to reduce rake. Evidently the boat sails alot better with less rake. But I left the base loose, in order to help out with the rock n’ roll (swell) we were experiencing while lowering the mast into the boat. I only realized this “oopsie” after the gin pole lines had been released from the mast. Well, I asked to have it reconnected and some strain taken on the mast so we could re-align it, and move the step aft. We were only able to get it back half way on the bolt slots… good enough for now. I think however that it’s better this way, since any further back and my stays wouldn’t fit. I built all my rigging off the old rig, using the same dimensions… which ensured I’d have rigging that fit, but didn’t allow me to remove the rake fully. Guess there’s always next time…

The boat got smaller with the mast and boy did the mast get yellower once installed. I think it must be the yellow and green combo… I feel like the flag ship for the Oakland A’s, John Deere or McMaster-Carr — take your pick. My mast color struck up many a conversation around the yard, and was dubbed “Safety Yellow”. I like the Sterling Cloud White top I did, I think it’d be nice in all white - perhaps just the white top makes the mast look squat… I’m not sure. Without sails, its hard to judge, she still looks naked.

Last spring when the boat was delivered I thought I’d be in for about a month’s worth of work,  then I’d launch and go sailing! Little did I know… things take 3x as long, and cost 5x as much as anticipated. All in the name of fun… or is it obsession, or is it addiction?

As I kept pushing the launch date back another week, then two, then three - the running gag became “June 09″ which at the time seemed so far away and rediculuous. But oh how true it was! June 1st to be exact. Although, I am launched… I’m far from ready to go sailing.

The launch went smoothly, except for no water flowing from the exhaust on startup. I had to tie up to the dock for a few minutes while I primed the pump… filled the raw water strainer with water. I guess when I winterized it, the strainer drained. I would have thought the pump would overcome that, but I suppose that is a large volume of air.

Living aboard on the mooring gets me in the mood. I’m pirating wifi from ashore, somones unsecured network. I use a Linksys router flashed with an application called DD-wrt, and a 15dbi omni directional antenna. Works OK. It’s still not 100% reliable, but I can usually find signal and get some work done after dinner. The boat has put a severe leak in my wallet, and the pumps are barely keeping up. Solar panels, wind generator, and a new dodger will have to wait. But I did order a Simrad TP32, a necessity. I was so excited to see the brand new lifelines (purchased by previous owner) in place, first time they’ve been rigged since I’ve known the boat. Too bad the gorgeaous quick releases he ordered don’t fit in the D-rings on the stantions.

After having spliced my entire rig WRONG last summer, I’m back to re-rigging my boat with Sta-loks. Splicing was yet another expensive and time sucking mistake I’ve made. I am happy that I learned to splice, and enjoyed the process (agony). But mechanical terminals are the way to go. I have much appreciation for them now that I know the alternative. I understand Hi-Mods are even easier than Sta-Loks, and are perhaps more appealing to the eye (still undecided on that), but since I had the bottom Sta-Lok studs already, I opted to re-use those and just buy new Sta-Lok tops, saving myself $700 or so. I’m reusing the wire from the splices where I can, but that still left me buying almost 200′ of new wire. The only tricky thing with Sta-Loks is keeping the strands out of the gap in the wedge. Here’s a pic of how they line up to avoid the gap.

I’ve come to realize I’m a sloppy painter. I’m a bad taper. And I’m Ok with it. My new motto is “Work boat finish, with an ounce of neglect, and a pound of incompetence”… well that’s not actually my new motto, but it sounded wonderfully self defeating and accurate. I’m trying to set myself up for the stunned looks I’m going to get when people see my paint job. The blank stare and silence will tell all. I won’t need to appologize for the runs and sags or the spots on the deck and whale strake. Nor will I have to make excuses for the bleed through where the tape obviously was, or the holidays at the bottoms of the faux frames… I just want to get it all out there now… This is a 15′ paint job.

I will say however that depsite the sweet smell of fresh banana candy that comes from my boat every day this week, there are no treats when it comes to painting the bulwarks. It’s a tiring job, and I only hope that Awlgrip is all it’s cracked up to be, cuz I dont want to have to do this for another 10 years. However, whether I can stand to look at those sags for 10 years is unlikely.  I’ve come to the conclusion there is no such thing as the “final coat”. The only final thing about my paint is the flight of the bugs that are drawn by the enticing aroma of Toxic Bananas (aka Awlcat #3).

While I had good intentions to do the two middle strakes of the bulwarks in green to match the whale strake, I realized that in the interest of launching sooner rather than later, I should just go all cream for now. I can always sand back the cream and paint green over it if the mood becomes me.

Here is a little photo review & summary of the chainplate swap & bow repair that is nearly complete. Just needs a light sanding and final Awlgrip coat on a non-windy day. This yard is THE ABSOLUTE WORST place to try and paint or varnish anything. I feel like I’m trying to paint during Desert Storm… everything I paint is non-skid, which I suppose isn’t all that bad. OSHA would approve.

1. Removed cracked SS bobstay chainplate, which went right through the hull and was glassed over on the inside of the forepeak… which by the way is a lovely place to grind fiberglass on a hot July day.

2. Filled gap in a quick fix kind of manner… because I thought it would be OK that way, and I was already late getting the boat in the water, and summer was running out. Little did I know I’d never get sailing that summer. Haste makes waste!

3. Design and install new chainplates. Bronze is my preference. Looks better, feels better and costs alot more - MUST BE BETTER!

4. Decided the simple, thickened epoxy filled hole was a poor fix and that I should really do it right. Grinded back the bow area with some 36 grit on a 4″ grinder. Now we’re talkin! Oooops, took a little more off than I expected. Found a few small voids during this little archealogical dig into Costa Mesa Glass Layup.

5. Begin process of what I thought would be 3-4 layers of glass cloth — turned out to be 10 layers total: 9 cloth, 1 mat, all laid up with West System.  I laid 2-3 layers per day all at the same time.

6. Fair in the last bit with some thickened epoxy. I used 406, because that’s what I had laying around. Fairing is difficult for me, I think I’m fair-challenged.

7. Paint and paint again. Voila, not too bad for a novice. Good job Ben! I taped off and brushed on the AWLGRIP top coat over this repair. Maybe there’s a better way to fair it in with a brush… I don’t know. If you have some ideas let me know, I’ll try them. At least the paint color matches pretty well, and it’s in an inconspicuous spot.

One year ago today Elizabeth arrived from TX… weeks late, but safe and mostly sound. The night she arrived, Rosie and I were so excited, we accidentally offered to take the truck driver and his GF to the local pizza joint in the back of his 91′ VW golf. Loaded heavily in the stern, we dragged the muffler the entire way; his poor car has never been the same.

365 days later, she doesn’t look too different to the casual eye. She’s still on the hard, and mastless. But I know alot of time, MONEY and effort has gone into her this past year. And I’ve loved every second of it. Just hard to believe another year has gone by, and I haven’t even sailed her yet. Not going to happen this year though. I’m planning on a first week of June launch… THAT’S LESS THEN 3 WEEKS AWAY! I’m sure the bulwarks will still be wet. AWLgrip recommends letting the paint cure a full 3 weeks before putting the vessel into regular use. Hah!

WEST HULL REPAIR

The bow repair is nearly complete. I ended up laying in 9 layers of cloth and 1 layer of mat. I laid 2-3 layers per day. I mixed in one tablespoon of 404 in each batch of epoxy I used to lay the cloth.  I think it will be a very solid repair. Fairing it up and painting it to look nice will be the trick. This second pic shows me trowling in the WEST/404 mixture for final fairing.

AWLGRIP

Bulwark painting takes time. I started out using a small roller and foam brush for corners.  But, I’ve found simply using a china bristle brush is the way to go. I’m using a 2″ cheapy brush from West Marine (Sea Fit Cutter Professional) which costs me ~$2.00 through Port Supply… disposable IMO. It’s been taking me about 3 hours per side. I find, if the weather cooperates and I get my shit together early enough in the day, I am able to lay one coat, working from bow to stern, then go right back to the bow and lay a second “hot coat” immediatly after finishing the first. So currently the port side has 3 coats, while the starboard side has 2 coats on the outboard side, but only 1 coat on the inboard side. Rain slowed me down today. I found the old tape I had onboard ended up bleeding through, even though it was the better quality green tape. The new rolls of blue masking tape I bought held up much better. This is one case where newer is better.

The trick to Awlgrip even in the primer stage is to keep the paint thin. The wind has been an issue lately. I have been contending with 15-20kts, with gusts to 30kts on occasion. I have to hold my paint pot and stir stick at all times for fear if I set it down, it will blow over. I use a healthy dose of T00031 brushing reducer, and keep adding it as I go. When I get the ratio right, the primer really lays down nicely and brush strokes are minimized.

When I do have to sand between coats, I have been wiping down with Interlux 202, because I forgot to order the Awlprep. Jeff, the painter at the Martha’s Vineyard Shipyard assured me I’d be fine using the 202. He also told me not to let Awlgrip be in control. He said, ” Make the Awlgrip your slave. You control it.” Good advice. I treat it like any other paint, not being intimidated at all. At least I got it for a decent price. Half the issue with these LPU paints is worrying about wasting it and watching a 12oz pot ($50) go to waste. I paid $207 for 1 gallon of 545 primer, 1 gallon of catalyst and 1 gallon of brushing reducer… or about $70 each.  And that’s alot of product, I won’t use it all. I’m currently wondering what else I can paint

Some notes on procedure… Dan from Shaula alerted me to the fact that I should sink the stantion bolts in the paint. I tend to forget these important steps, as witnessed this winter with some of my varnish projects and the forgotten bungs. Some of my stantion holes had yet to be drilled, so I spent some time drilling those out. I learned the hard way a few weeks back that you need a backing plate when driling through wood in order to avoid blowing out the backside. I laid one coat of 545, then installed the bolts, on top of which 2-3 more primer coats will be applied. I also decided to remove the gallows, and GPS antenna from the taffrail area for easier brush access to the surfaces. Much easier.

Guitar strapped on the back of a semi, driving thru space… ring any bells? No? Well, anyways… I’m back, and the balls have gone thru the wall. Not much time to do anything but work to make money and work to get Eliza launched. Certainly no time to be writing silly gibberish here that’s for sure. I should probably be busy making some  banner ads or something.

Dad is settled (to some degree) in his new home… I feel a sense of freedom, and guilt… sorta like I just dropped the kid off at the pool without his waterwings.

After a week of relentless rain, the weather finally cleared, and now I have a sunburn. I got right to work as soon as the drops stopped. There was alot of rot I had drilled or cut out before I CPES’d the bulwarks 3 weeks ago. Anywhere a SS bolt went through the wood, rot developed due to water impregnation and oxygen starvation. So first business was to fill the voids in. Teak dutchmans, and bungs were laid in with WEST thickened with 407. Of course, it rained on my epoxy. But I was able to get it sanded back and fair it in nicely the next day rain-free.

In my rush to launch last fall, and motor down to here before winter, I slapped some thickened WEST into the rectangle left in the stem by the removed bobstay chainplate. Now I wanted to fix that section properly with some layers of cloth and mat… over which I’ll have to paint. Luckily I am raising the waterline, so alot of the work I am doing will be covered by bottom paint, but some of it will be above the waterline. That will be interesting to see when I get around to trying to blend it in. I used a 4″ angle grinder and 36 grit paper to grind down the bow, followed by my RO sander with 80 grit. I laid 2 cloth layers as per the WEST literature, starting with bigger pieces and working outwards to smaller pieces. At first that schedule seemed counter intuitive, but now it makes sense.

After my epoxy got wet as mentioned above, I took the rainy moment to cut out the section of rotten chain in my main bower. It was 300′ of 5/16″ G4…. now its 210′ + 80′. I think 210′ will be sufficient for my primary anchor mated with 100′ or so of nylon. The other 80′ I will consider for my secondary bower, but that’s really too much weight to carry up forward IMO. Chain is nearly brand new…

My friend has a small boat (27′) with some anchor chain that’s way too big for his boat and he’s got LOTS of it…200′. His displacement is slightly more than half mine, but his chain is twice the size and 4x the weight. He’s passed the point of safety and a “reserve of neglect” here… he’s a Failboat candidate. Through no fault of his own mind you, his boat came heavily laden with this fat pile of chain. It’s another case of “more ain’t better”. But not to worry my friends, he’s taking the necessary steps to rectify the problem. Anyone need 200′ of BBB 3/8″ ?? …good price!!

The thought of this much extra weight forward (600lbs extra actually) makes me think of ye olde FAILBOAT. It’s been around a while, but still makes me giggle. It’s part of some internet nonsense… called Failblog. And of course there’s the Urban Dictionary Definition of said boat, in case you are confused.

Came across this pretty excellent site the other day. His pictures are outstanding, and I like his approach to alot of the projects he illustrates. Definetly worth checking out. Here’s one of his pics, that really hammers home the technique I was using last summer when sealing some of my deck core. A picture is worth a thousand words or more… Check out more of his DIY’s