Why Splice?
At first, I planned to only replace the three wires with cracked swages…but prudence spoke to me one cool clear night, and encouraged me to replace the entire rig. I debated amongst myselves, to splice, to Sta-Lok or to swage. Each has it advantage and disadvantage. Six of one, five and a half of the other, a bakers dozen for the other other. In the end I decided to splice my new rig in 1×19. Why the self inflicted torture you wonder. Pure vanity. I don’t think swages and Sat-Lok’s are very attractive. Being pretty is never easy. And certainly splicing 1×19 is no exception. I blame my schooner-upbringing for this attraction to tradition.

It’s About Who Ya Know
It also helps that I know a great rigger, Myles Thurlow, who has rigged many boats including some large schooner yachts: Juno, Rebecca and Charlotte. He also worked on The Pride of Baltimore’s re-rig after she was dis-masted off the coast of France 2 or 3 years ago. He has offered to not only teach me to splice, but is also letting me use his shop and tools. He will work alongside me as his time permits, and I will pay him for his work, to help speed the process along.

The Brutality Of It
Splicing 1×19 is not complicated at all, infact I find it conceptually simpler than splicing 3 strand rope. It is however physically difficult. These wires simply do not want to bend the way you need them to. But some hammering and tugging, a few bloody finger tips, some sweet talking (aka cursing) and a nice pair of leather gloves really help coax them into position. Practice makes perfect they say, and I have 34 total splices to do for this rig. Myles did the 3/8″ bobstay today. I did none, only practice splices. So, 32 left to go, 30 if I skip the backstay insulation for now. I’m betting I can get 5 done tomorrow, 6 done the next day etc, and could wrap this up in about 5 days if I were to do them all myself.

Here’s some pics. Myles 3/8″ bobstay splice before serving. The Strands unlaid, ready to begin. My two ugly practice splices pathetically trumped by a very beautiful, near perfect 1×19 splice. All Pics Here

The Scene:
I got out the 4.5″ angle grinder and climbed into the forepeak clad in tyvek, respirator, safety goggles…and sweat. Was a fairly straightforward job…grind away the fiberglass, make sure you don’t put a hole in boat, remove chainplate. Took me about 3 hrs. Made quite a mess. I was reluctant to buy a Dremel tool, but so far I’ve found it invaluable for routing out deck core and today for getting into the tight spots on this chainplate removal.

Options for replacement are to simply remake this piece, sticking with the same design. Or to design and fabricate 2 new plates to be bolted onto the either side of the bow similar to the Shannon 28 design shown here (Courtesy of Douglas – BCC Calliste). Either way, I’ll be getting into some structural fiberglass repair soon enough.

Casualty Of The Day:
Dremel Tool wrench lost to the bilge.

All Pics Can Be Seen Here

Chainplates
The situation is 3 cracked chainplates, and a few more yet to be removed and inspected. The cracks in SS are very small and the untrained eye will skip right over them. Round holes are better then square ones. I like the idea of round holes, but not hex heads on the outside of my hull. Would like to find pics of that.

The bobstay chainplate is glassed in… no bolts at all. I’ll be grinding fiberglass soon to remove it. To re-engineer this piece or not? I’ve been exploring options and researching how other boats tackle this fitting. I like the idea of two separate straps bolted to the hull. Quotes for 2 new chainplates vary from $105 each (304 SS) to $175 each (316 SS).

The Bowsprit
Rosie and Darrah came up to help me remove the sprit. Should make the glue joint repair a little easier, as well as painting and varnishing. Douglas Fir Laminated. The top section has been sun beaten I guess, and the glue has failed. So far seems OK a few inches down. I’m planning to rout out the seam and glue in a strip of Doug Fir.

Deck core repairs
The aft cowl vent hole has been epoxied such that no plywood core is exposed. I routed out about .5″ as well as around the screw holes, and filled it all with epoxy. I think this is a nice solution to exposed core. I hope it lasts and performs as expected. I will be doing this with a few other screw and bolt holes as time goes on.

Varnish
Felt good to lay down some varnish. I am doing only the most necessary varnish work now. Which means the boomkin, rudder and bowsprit. The other on deck varnish will be done post launch. I’ve used Epifanes Matte on the boomkin and rudder cheeks to begin building coats. First coat well thinned with Penetrol and brushing thinner.