Bristol Channel Cutter Elizabeth

The weather is improving - slightly… the change of seasons comes late on Martha’s Vineyard. The ocean has a warming effect in the fall, and a cooling effect in the spring. But with steady temperatures of at least 40º or so, it’s time to turn my focus to the work on the boat. I’ve completed my big take home projects, all that remains are a few odds and ends like painting spreaders, painting electronics covers, outboard motor water pump replacement, etc… nothing too pressing… but great reasons to take a break from web design work at 10pm.

The 8″ teak bulwarks are a really nice salty feature… until you have to scrape them down. Funny (sad) to think I started this job about 10 months ago! Since then, I’ve become very good friends with the chemical stripper and my trusty 3 sided scraper. This is a job I hope I never have to do again. Which is why I want to choose the best paint possible, and do it right from the get-go.

I’m still debating my coating options. I was all set to go with Sterling, a linear polyurethane, which comes highly recommended. But it’s very expensive and complicated to apply, requiring a veritable army of products: thinners, reducers, catalysts, multiple primers, etc. I think I could do the bulwarks, covering board, taffrail, and rub rail (175 sq. feet) for about $1300, but even that estimate is with a minimum of coats. The LP paint is super durable and UV resistant, and if done right produces a gloss that is unparalleled. But what about touch-ups and spot repairs?

Easypoxy, a single component polyurethane, is another option I’m considering, which I would do over a few coats of CPES. My Easypoxy system (CPES, hi build primer and top coat) would run about $500.

I learned tonight that you can use the Sterling topcoat over System 3’s  LPU high build 2 part epoxy primer, which sells for a mere $85 per gallon kit, SUBSTANTIALLY reducing the cost of having that coveted Sterling finish and durability. Found this interesting forum tonight: forums.bateau2.com. A distributor for Sterling, Boat Builder Central, runs it, and they have some decent Sterling info there. It’s well presented, unlike the DetcoMarine website.

So I’m still researching and I’m undecided for now. I’ve already invested some money into Sterling. However, I kind of pussy-footed with it and ordered small quantities, which is very cost in-effective. The price ratio with Sterling is such that a quart costs half of what a gallon costs.

This blog is 1 year old. Happy Birthday BCCElizabeth.com. Read your first post!

After my Bristol Finish Experiment came out a bit “plasticy”, I decided to go back to the old favorite: Epifanes. But I didn’t want to spend the rest of the year building up coats on my last two hatches (main slide and seahood). So I employed the quick re-coat abilities of Epifanes Rapid Clear. I was able to recoat within about 4 hours, no sanding required. The Rapid Clear went on smoothly and evenly. However, I did build up a few sags, that were evident when I sanded back for the final coat. Still, despite some serious sags, you can’t complain with a coat-to-sanding ratio of 9:1.

On the left: Rapid Clear @ 8 coats.
On the right: Sanding back shows the sags before the final Hi Gloss coat.

After sanding lightly with 220 to knock back the dust particles and help calm some of the waves, I used a brown scrubby pad to scuff the rest of the hatch. No section was left shiney. Although the hi gloss looks really good, it’s not as smooth as I would have liked, nor is it as smooth as the final coat of Bristol Finish I laid on the forward scuttle. I should have sanded it a bit harder, but the fear of losing too many hard earned coats overcame me. I found the color of the finished product to be slightly lighter, more translucent than the Bristol Finish, but only upon close inspection. The Epifanes 10 coat procedure was more labor intensive and time consuming than the 6 coats of Bristol Finish, and the look isn’t that much different. I think I’m going to continue using the Bristol Finish on the cockpit coamings and eyebrow, especially since Bristol Finish is said to stand up to the elements (UV) much better then traditional spar varnish… but ask me again tomorrow and I might have changed my mind - I’ve come to love both products.

One thing I was reminded of by my friend Robert Sutton, who is building a 42′ Westsail, is that brush quality plays a major role in how flat and smooth your coats lays down. I switched to a Sea Fit Flasgship brush for the final coat of Hi Gloss, and Wow! What a difference. Much better flow and coverage, with less work, and fewer dropped bristles! I wonder how much better this might have turned out if I had used the Flagship from the get-go.

One other note is that the Type P Caulk seems to be receding into the seams, and there is now a shallow spot between some of the planks. The regular Life Caulk under the Bristol Finish did not do this. A mystery.

Well, my interest in varnish has led me to a new discovery. It all happened because I started calling the manufacturers directly with my questions… I called Epifanes at least three times in one day. I learned the correct pronunciation of Epifanes (Epee-fawn-us), and that West Marine rebrands Epifanes products, which they sell at a lower price - proving that West Marine’s normal markup is just absolutely off the charts ridiculous. You can’t get Rapid Clear at West Marine, but you can get Wood Pro Plus - which is the same thing. If you’re not familiar with the product, it’s a quick drying semi gloss product that doesn’t require sanding between coats. Great for all my bare wood projects, where 3-4 coats can be applied in one day. (The can sizes are different, 750ml vs 1000ml, which is why I show the price per Liter.)  Epifanes Hi Gloss is rebranded as West Marine 5 Star Premium, saving you $15 on this popular top coat varnish.

One of my priorities this winter project season has been speed of product application and drying. All of my wood has been scraped down to bare wood sanded with 80, bleached, then finish sanded with 120, and finally 220. The word on the street is 90% of the effort is in the prep, 10% in the actual varnish/paint. But no one ever talks about drying time!

After my first hatch which I sealed with the regular Life Caulk and its cure time of 7-10 days, I swore never again. Boat Life makes a 2 part polysulfide called Type P. I used it on my last two hatches: Main Slide and Seahood. The Type P was tack free in one hour and dry the next day. I gave it 48 hours before I busted out the sandpaper, just to be sure I wasn’t going to pull any seams out. It dries a bit harder then the normal Boat Life polysulfide, but is still soft when pushed on. I’m happy with it so far, and thrilled that I’ll be done varnishing these hatches before I was even able to begin sanding the last hatch.

I’ve been enjoying these two books, everytime I head to the bathroom, to a church meeting with Dad, or while dining. Both seem to me to be very comprehensive and I’ve found them easy to digest. On these subjects I was utterly clueless, now I’m just slightly clueless…which is about normal for me.  The Boatowner’s Illustrated is kinda like a comic book, has lots of pictures, but is a little light on action. However, I recommend them both.

The varnish game continues, but it’s getting a bit warmer outside, and I’m getting the itch to wrap up these inside projects so I can get down to the boat itself and complete the bulwark refinish project. Had a slight set back on the Seahood. Found some delaminated plywood on the underneath side, and shortly after my discovery I had pulled off a few square inches of soft wood… oops. CPES, within arms reach, to the rescue. There was some in bosun’s stores, leftovers from my summer deck core rot project.

The deck boxes are moving along, and will see their final coat tonight I hope… depends on if I can keep the Sag Monster at bay. I’ve been dating alot of varnish products, and have yet to commit to one in particular. It’s good to get out and play the field. I’m learning alot about each varnish and about myself. Often I’ve found, it’s not the varnish, it’s me. It’s my technique, not the size of my brush. Bristol Finish likes it thin. It doesn’t mind being slapped around or dragged over a few times, as long as it goes on thin. I have a hunch, things get a little milky when I lay it on too thick. Deck Boxes are looking better than the fwd scuttle so far.

Bristol Finish, a 2 part polyurethane clear finish has been my 2 day solution to the multi-coat varnish build up routine that can often take weeks. It’s pretty fast indeed, as noted in my previous post about the skylight. I was achieving a 1 hour re-coat time inside at 68º with a fan blowing. The trouble I find with wet on wet is that I tend to lay it on thick to compensate for not being able to clearly see the difference between the old coat and the new. There is no sanded, scuffed base to contrast the glossy newly applied coat, it’s all glossy, all the time. The result: sags, and I believe, a slightly milky finish.

I laid down 5 wet on wet coats, then let it dry overnight. Sanded it down to a nice smooth, sag free state today, outside in the 30º snow scene we woke up to the other day. I took care to sand every square millimeter. Bristol Finish recommends 4 coats minimum with 6 being ideal. The hatch was on target for 6, give or take a coat since I sanded pretty aggressively.

Bristol Finish produces a deep, thick looking finish, which is very glossy, perhaps too glossy. It lays down nicely for a smooth surface. And the result is an almost plastic looking finish. Which makes me realize, this stuff basically is plastic! (Why would anyone in their right mind put plastic on top of beautiful teak?) The thick finish has a slight milky look to it, the reason for which I’m not 100% sure yet. I like the look, but I’m not sure if it fits my vision for BCC Elizabeth with her spliced rig, bowsprit, traditional lines etc… This Bristol Finish look is more inline with a cruise ship or a go fast mega yacht. I love the post sanding look pictured below to the left. They make a satin additive, which I might consider for future.

It is what it is, it’s on, it looks good, not perfect, but I’m done with this hatch. I’ve been experimenting with a variety of varnish options and I think the hunt must continue for the best solution. Only time will tell, however, as the durability and required future maintenance is the ultimate deciding factor. I’m currently researching Epifanes Rapid Clear… might be my next experiment.

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